Discovering Andalusia’s Whitewashed Towns
When I arrived at the lively Costa del Sol airport near Malaga, I had no idea what to expect. My initial thought was that this area didn’t feel like Spain; it felt like a sunny holiday destination for those yearning to escape grey and cool temperatures. And, in my defence, the beach towns are targeted toward tourists, with British or Irish pubs at nearly every corner, signs in English, and a myriad of casinos, water parks, and resorts along the main highway. I recognize that yes, my family and I were tourists, and yes, part of my family, wanted to stay in a comfortable, tourist-focused area. Hence why we flew into Costa del Sol and made our way to a resort near Fuengirola, Spain. Part of me was excited to be in the sun and just relax by the pool, but another part of me was jumping at the bit to explore the area. Before this, I’d only ever been in Spain once, and that was to Barcelona. Barcelona was a quick weekend trip that I went on with a friend while we were studying in Glasgow, and for me, it totally lived up to the hype. I didn’t particularly have any interest in exploring the Costa del Sol region of Spain, but if it meant escaping the harsh Canadian winter and a way for me to get to the Canary Islands, it wasn’t hard to say yes.
For the first few days in Fuengirola, we explored the small beach town and mostly relaxed. It was nice and necessary but it was time to see and do more. My Uncle briefly talked about these small towns in the Andalusia region around Malaga, and we kind just said “sure, why not” and off we went the next day. We left early — not horrendously early considering we were on vacation, but around 8am, just enough for us to set an alarm and hurry out the door. I was going in blind to this road trip and had no idea what to expect. I was just there to enjoy the ride. However, I wasn’t too sure about the route my Uncle chose. We left Fuengirola, traveled about 30 minutes toward Marbella, and went inland toward Ojén.
Ojen was one of the bigger villages we saw that day, and yet it was quiet and still. Ojén was filled with tiny terracotta-tiled lanes that you wanted to get lost in for hours. It had a few local bakeries, supermarkets, a few bars, a church, and a pharmacy, which really, is all you need. If I wanted to have a simple and quiet life, Ojén is where I’d go. For those who want to explore further, the Cuevas de Ojén offers phenomenal views of the Costa del Sol, only requiring a small hike through a cave and up a few stairs.
From Ojén, we briefly stopped in Monda. Monda was even smaller and quieter than Ojén, and despite it seeming incredibly local, there were quite a few restaurants serving English food. Much like our time in Ojén, we wandered around the white-washed streets, in awe of the sheer beauty of this place. Before heading on to the next village, we stopped for a coffee at Café-Bar Central, a picturesque cafe with phenomenal espresso.
Every journey between towns was a little thrill; the twisting roads, constant traffic, and motorcyclists speeding around corners and down hills like it was no problem. I usually don’t mind narrow roads, but my Uncle’s confident, fast driving did not make me a fan. It was fun, regardless. We stopped at miradors, we found a biker bar on the side of the road, and took the cheesiest photos imaginable.
Much like Monda, our time in Coín was short but enjoyable. We weren’t sure what to expect, but it was only a fifteen minute drive, so we figured we might as well go see it. Coín seemed was more populous than Ojén and Monda — they had a huge Mercadona and an Aldi — but still had it’s unique character and white-washed architecture. Coín had a lovely central plaza, loads of tapas and traditional Spanish restaurants, and plenty of bakeries and dessert shops to satisfy any sweet tooth.
By the time we made it to Mijas, the sun was nearly down. The skies were a pink hue and the white-washed buildings that were bright in the afternoon sun were now a nice, soothing contrast against the darkening sky. Mijas was probably my favourite out of all the towns we visited. It had spectacular views, gorgeous restaurants, a lively town square, and plenty of artisan’s shops to keep you amused for hours. Mijas was only a 20 minute drive from Fuengirola, and it would be the perfect way to get out of the main cities and grab lunch.
As we made our way down the hills from Mijas and back into the busy streets of Fuengirola for tinto verano and tapas, I was met with lively streets and filled restaurants. Fuengirola was busy with locals and tourists, all enjoying good food, cheap wine, and a slight chill to the air. Despite being apprehensive about the Costa del Sol region, I quickly learned to love it. It was equally relaxing as it was interesting and cultural. After two weeks of travelling with my family, each day seemed slightly taxing and tiring, but this day ended up being near-perfect. I was happily tired. Spending the day exploring these small white villages that had been there for hundreds of years was the ideal way to charge my battery before diving head first into Madrid the next week.
